Ontario's Best Trails

Guidelines and Best Practices for the Design, Construction and Maintenance of Sustainable Trails for All Ontarians - Trails for All Ontarians Collaborative 2006

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Chapter 5: Best Pratices for Trail Construction

There are many ways to build a trail. Detailed information about materials and construction techniques for the trail should be developed during the trail design phase. The construction crew leader uses the detailed construction log created during trail design to ensure that the trail is constructed as intended . The specific construction techniques on each trail will vary, depending on many factors (e.g., intended trail experience, type and volume of trail users). The trail designer will have considered the range of abilities among trail users as well as environmental factors in order to determine the final trail design. The designer will also have worked closely with the landowner to ensure that the final trail design will be supported and accepted. It is important that the construction crew follow the construction log details as closely as possible , so that "as built" will be virtually the same as "as designed".

The construction techniques described in this "best practice" document are intended for use by volunteers who will be building trails without using heavy machinery . They are the recommended minimum standard for trail design, construction and maintenance. Volunteer labour and hand tools are the source of most Ontario trails. Trails professional unfamiliar with sustainable trail design will also find these "best practices" informative. It is essential that the person leading the trail construction work be thoroughly familiar with all of the design and construction standards that apply to the trail . Trail designers and construction crew leaders should strive to ensure that every trail meets not only these minimum guidelines, but also any additional guidelines that may apply to specific trails or managed lands. Otherwise, the volunteer labour used to construct the trail may be for nought if, after construction, sections of the trail do not meet required standards and have to be re-done.

Once the route is final, trail construction usually proceeds in five broad steps . The order of completion will vary depending on the specific site conditions. The steps are:

Each of these steps (described in subsequent sections) requires various materials and tools. It is important that the materials and tools be carefully chosen to ensure that they are suited to the specific task and local conditions. Making good choices of material and tools will save time and costs.

Minimizing Environmental Damage

It is important that every trail be constructed in a manner that respects the natural surroundings. People use trails to make contact with the natural environment, and research clearly shows that 90% of the environmental impacts caused by sustainable trails occur during construction and initial use. It is a misconception that the environmental damage from a trail results primarily from ongoing trail use. However, if a trail is constructed using these "best practices" for sustainability and universal design, only minimal environmental impacts will occur after the first year of trail use. [56] Your challenge, as a trail builder, is to limit the environmental damage during trail construction as much as possible .

Erosion and compaction of the soil adjacent to the trail tread are the two largest problems faced by trail builders . Erosion and compaction modify the trail's local environment by changing the way that water, soil and nutrients move about. It is a common misconception that erosion and compaction are "unavoidable", as if they inevitably and naturally result from trail construction and use. This need not be the case. By constructing a sustainable trail tread , that is itself properly compacted and suitable for the type and amount of trail users, the erosion and compaction of areas adjacent to the trail tread can be largely avoided . If compaction of the trail tread will potentially damage sensitive plants or trees, the design of the trail should be re-considered to ensure that the tread is located in more appropriate soils and vegetation.

Fall line
Direction water flows down a hill (path of least resistance). Constructing a trail on the fall line encourages water to run down the trail tread.
Contours or Contour lines
Lines on a topographic or orthophoto map that join points at the same elevation to illustrate altitudes, slopes, and other terrain properties.
Curvilinear or Contour-design trail
Trail constructed so that it crosses the contours of the landform at a shallow or oblique angle.

To minimize soil erosion and compaction on areas adjacent to the trail tread , design and construct your trail so that:

In addition to minimizing the erosion and compaction of soil adjacent to the trail, the uniqueness and sensitivity of trailside vegetation must also be carefully considered and appropriately managed . The aesthetic appeal of a trail is enhanced if it takes the trail user through a variety of vegetation. Vegetation can be used to protect privacy, provide vistas, and enhance public safety. Close to the trail edge, leave vegetation so that it looks undisturbed. This will discourage users from going off of the trail tread and the foliage can help to reduce the impact of rainfall on the surrounding soil. If vegetation adjacent to the trail is damaged or must be removed during trail construction, ensure that the area is re-planted with native species as soon as the damaging construction work has been completed.

The construction of a trail often also provides opportunities to carry out habitat restoration or enhancement projects. Actively look for opportunities to improve or restore the trail environment as part of your trail construction project. Within urban areas especially, there may be funding available to encourage schools to be involved in naturalization projects or for the planting of native species. Similarly, the construction of a stream crossing can often offer opportunities for projects that will stabilize rapidly eroding banks or streams with pools and riffles.

When planning an environmental restoration or rehabilitation project, be sure to obtain all of the necessary permits and approvals. Wetland projects will require approval from the Ministry of Natural Resources. Conservation Authority approval may also be required, and the staff can provide detailed information about species at risk or other special considerations that may apply to the trail environment.

Clearing the Trail Corridor

The first step in constructing a trail is to complete the clearing of the trail corridor. With the initial brushing and clearing of the trail corridor completed during the design phase (see Guidelines for Trail Design - Clear Corridor ), some of the clearing work will already be done. At this stage, the crew follows along the final flag line for the tread alignment, ensuring that all vegetation and obstacles (e.g., rocks) have been removed. There are three goals for this clearing work:

  1. Remove all obstacles or vegetation and other organic material (e.g., duff) that will hamper construction or the sustainability of the trail tread. Ideally, the topsoil (which is organic material) is removed so that the trail tread is built on compacted mineral soil. However, if the layer of topsoil is relatively thick, excavating down to the compacted mineral soil is not appropriate. In this case, only the loose soil should be removed along with the vegetation. This material should be carefully removed and stored during construction. After construction is complete the topsoil and vegetation can be used to restore the trail tread and adjacent areas.
  2. Remove restrictions and obstacles along the trail route so that it will be safe for all permitted trail users. Obstacles and restrictions that are potential safety hazards should be removed from on and above the trail tread as well as from the buffer zone.
  3. Remove the brush and vegetation from the cut bank and fill slope that will be created by the side slope adjacent to the tread. As the side slope gets steeper, the area that must be cleared gets larger because the top of the cut bank and the bottom of the fill slope get further apart. It is important to ensure that fill is not placed on top of existing vegetation because the filled area will become unstable and irregular (causing drainage problems) when the vegetation underneath the fill eventually rots.

In most places, especially in southern Ontario, clearing the trail corridor will require removal of the existing vegetation. On the trail tread, all organic material must be removed in order to optimize the sustainability of the constructed tread over time. Adjacent to the trail tread, it is usually best to leave as much of the natural vegetation as possible . A well-designed trail will minimize the need for vegetation removal by taking advantage of naturally occurring clearings and not requiring the removal of larger trees (which are an important environmental and aesthetic asset).

It is also important to remove all objects that protrude into the trail tread area . Rocks protruding from the trail tread are a tripping hazard for trail users, particularly those who are less agile (e.g., older adults) and those who may be inattentive (e.g., children). Objects that overhang the trail tread above the ground are also hazardous. Bumped heads or "whacks" on the body are not a component of a "safe trail experience". Objects overhanging the trail tread are particularly hazardous for people with limited sight and those who may be inattentive (e.g., children).

In certain special situations (e.g., tundra and riparian areas), existing vegetation must be left as untouched and undisturbed as possible to maintain environmental quality. In these special circumstances, the trail tread must be built above and around existing vegetation (refer to Tread Structures Above the Surrounding Terrain for additional information). Contact your local Conservation Authority and office of the Ministry of Natural Resources for detailed information about what, if any, work can be undertaken in these environments.

Occasionally it may be desirable, or even necessary, to make additional small openings in the vegetation along the trail. There are a number of reasons that additional openings may be desirable (e.g., provide a view, allow a rest area, provide a break in the "tunnel effect" of continuous canopy, management of species growth by altering sun penetration). The location of these areas and the work required should be specified in the trail construction log. It is important that all decisions regarding vegetation removal be informed and approved . In areas where the clearing limits are increased above the minimum, it is helpful to include a brief note about the reason(s) for the decision in the construction log. Trail volunteers often equate the removal of vegetation with environmental damage . Therefore, it is important for the construction crew leader to carefully monitor the work to ensure that the intended clearing limits are achieved throughout the trail.

The specific methods and extent of clearing will vary, depending on the type of tread surface to be constructed. If an elevated tread surface (e.g., boardwalk, causeway) will be constructed, the initial steps to remove existing vegetation will likely not be required. However, to clear the trail corridor for safe and sustainable construction and use of a ground-level trail tread, complete the following steps:

  1. Ensure all members of the trail crew know and practice safety procedures.
    Clearing work on a trail typically involves people swinging tools that are heavy and sharp. Therefore, it is essential that appropriate safety practices be implemented. Before work on the trail begins, ensure that all crewmembers are aware of the importance of basic safety practices , such as:
    1. Wear appropriate safety equipment (e.g., glasses, hat, leg guards).
    2. Have a good grip on the tool handle (no wet or muddy gloves) and stable and secure footing.
    3. Maintain constant awareness of other people in the area (workers and trail users).
    4. Ensure that the work area, including areas overhead, are free of hazards (e.g., wires) or obstacles to correct tool use.
    5. Choose the right tool for the job (see Tools Used for Clearing ) and keeping the tool sharp and in optimal condition for use (e.g., no loose bolts).
    6. Place tools not in use in a specific location (so others can find them when needed but people will not trip on them).
    7. Carry tools safely (down at your side, blade guards on) to and from the work site.
  2. Remove all organic material from the trail tread .
    Organic material includes all vegetation, such as small plants, tree trunks and small bushes, and the root systems that support them. Root systems that are left in the trail tread will eventually rot, leaving a depression or "soft spot" that will encourage water to pool and may become a hazard for trail users. Vegetation on the trail tread also impedes water movement (sheet flow) across the trail tread. Any vegetation, organic matter or topsoil that must be removed from the trail tread should be kept for use in making repairs along the trail edges and elsewhere along the trail corridor.
  3. Remove vegetation overhanging the trail tread.
    Overhanging branches are a commonly forgotten "item" during trail construction. The problems that they create for trail users are particularly acute on trails that are used during the winter season, when branches may be heavily laden with snow. When removing stems and branches, always cut through the collar of the limb , to decrease the risk of infection and promote healing in the living tree.
  4. Remove rocks and any other obstacles from the trail tread.
    All rocks or other obstacles (e.g., signs, tree stumps) must be removed from the trail tread area. The trail tread area is the area covered by the design width and design height of the trail (see Clearing Limits ). The safety and enjoyment of all trail users is critical for the trail's economic and social sustainability. All trail users should have the opportunity to move along the trail without the risk of injury. For trails that are constructed on a bedrock surface, the trail design should choose a route that reduces, to the greatest extent possible, the hazards from protrusions into the trail tread area.
  5. Clear vegetation from the buffer zone .
    The buffer zone is the area of cleared vegetation outside of the trail tread. All vegetation that could injure trail users who veer off of the tread should be removed. Vegetation should be cut level with the ground to prevent potential injuries to trail users who may lose their balance or fall. Innocuous vegetation (e.g., existing small plants, turf, soft ground cover) should be maintained for aesthetic reasons and to minimize the erosive impact of rainfall on the surrounding environment. Noxious vegetation (e.g., hawthorn, poison ivy) should be cleared well back (at least 1 year's growth beyond all areas where trail users may be found) from the entire trail corridor (trail tread and buffer zone). Expect the unexpected. Not all trail users will be able to stay on the trail tread all of the time.
  6. Remove large branches and trees as specified in the construction log .
    Often, the removal of larger branches or trees is not completed during the design phase brushing and clearing. In most cases, the removal of large trees or branches will be for safety reasons. Trail volunteers can remove large branches or trees that have already fallen, if they have the appropriate training and equipment. Great care is required at all times when working with large branches or trees . As the tree is cut, segments can shift suddenly and injuries often result. In general, it is best to cut a notch in the bottom side of large limbs before starting to cut down from above. The notch will decrease the risk of equipment binding or getting caught as the cut is made. A notch will also decrease the probability of uncontrolled cracking of the limb, which may result in damage to the remaining tree (e.g., stripping of the bark). The notch should be 1/2 to 2/3 of the thickness of the limb. A notch from below may not be possible if the limb is on or close to the ground. The felling of trees (either dead or alive) requires specific expertise, so professional assistance is recommended . If the tree is in the trail tread, the tree should be felled at a height (1.5 metres) above the ground, so that the remaining trunk can provide leverage that will assist in removing the root system as well. If there is any question that the tree or branch being removed is diseased, professional advice should be sought to determine whether the pieces from the felled tree should remain in, or be removed from the trail environment.

Clearing Limits

The clearing limits for the trail corridor should be specified in the construction log. Decisions regarding the size of the trail tread area and buffer zone are made during the design phase , and are typically based on input from local environmental experts and the landowner in addition to the needs of trail users.

The clearing limits for the trail corridor will be determined by two factors:

The designed trail tread area is the width and height of clear space required by permitted trail users . For a hiking trail, the designed width should be 1.0 metre (3 feet) or more and the designed height should be 2.0 metres (6.6 feet) or more. For trails that permit other user groups, the design width and height may be increased.

The buffer zone is the area on both sides and above the designed trail tread area . The purpose of the buffer zone is to establish the sight lines required for safe trail use, minimize the damage to trailside vegetation from users who stray off of the tread, and ensure that vegetation does not encroach onto the trail tread between the times for scheduled maintenance. The buffer zone should be at least 0.3 metres (12 inches) wide on each side of the trail and at least 0.5 metres (20 inches) above the top of the designated trail tread area. Many trail managers and landowners require larger buffer zones, particularly on more remote trails where maintenance is infrequent, on trails where users may be travelling at higher speeds, or where the position of vegetation is routinely affected by heavy ice, rain or snow conditions.

Construction crews should not make changes to the plans for vegetation removal described in the construction log. If additional vegetation removal seems to be required, the trail designer, a person who knows the local natural vegetation and the landowner should be involved in making and approving any changes. Trail workers should also make sure to clear the corridor to the width specified in the construction log. Many trail volunteers may mistakenly believe that clearing less vegetation will result in less environmental impact. However, trail impact research has clearly demonstrated that the vegetation loss and vegetation impact is much greater if the vegetation removed during construction is not wide enough for two trail users to walk the trail side by side. If vegetation is not carefully cut by trail workers so that the tread and buffer zone are free of vegetation, inevitably trail users will bend or break the vegetation to get it out of their way. Broken branches often result in stripped sections of bark which leave the vegetation at much greater risk for infection. In some cases, the stripped bark may actually kill small saplings.

Tools Used for Clearing

A wide variety of hand tools can be used for trail clearing. Specific tool choices will depend upon the type and diameter of the vegetation to be removed. Make sure that all trail workers have the training and experience to use tools appropriately and safely .

Clearing Weeds and Dense Vegetation

Powered mowers (e.g., string mower [57]) and weed cutters (often called "weed whip", "swizzle" or "weed whacker") can be used to quickly clear fields of grassy vegetation. If powered equipment will be used, the work crew should make a "first pass" to remove the larger saplings before the weed clearing work begins. Often, alternating passes of removing saplings and weeding are required. The saplings are difficult to see before the weeds are cleared, but the weeds are more difficult to clear when they surround more substantial vegetation. For particularly dense vegetation, a Swedish brush axe (also known as a Sandvik) can be used. It functions similar to a machete, but the shorter blade and long handle make it much safer to use.

Safety First

Cutting and digging tools are sharp and care must be taken in their use. Chainsaws are extremely dangerous and should only be used by properly trained individuals. Tools that bounce or glance off tree trunks or stumps when swung are a common cause of injury among trail volunteers . Keep your tools sharp, and ensure volunteers know how to use them correctly before letting them on the trail. Everyone using these tools must have access to and use the necessary safety equipment (e.g., glasses, safety boots, gloves and leg guards).

Cutting Small Saplings and Twigs

Hand-held pruning shears and secateurs are effective tools for snipping through small twigs (less than 2 cm (0.8 inches) in diameter). Long handled by-pass pruners , anvil clippers , loppers , or folding handsaws can be used for larger saplings and twigs. Pruners and loppers are generally preferred, because they give a clean cut (allowing the bark to heal more quickly) and are safer to use and carry. Models with ratchet or power assist features can effectively cut vegetation up to 5 cm (2 inches) in diameter. Long handled tools and tools with telescopic handles are particularly important for trimming small branches from mature trees. The long handles ensure that the worker can reach into the tree and make a clean cut through the collar of the branch, adjacent to the tree trunk.

Cutting Large Branches and Tree Trunks

For larger branches and tree trunks of more than 5 cm (2 inches) in diameter, saws are usually the "tool of choice". Saws provide a smoother cut, are generally more efficient, and are easy and reasonably safe for volunteers to use. Handsaws are available in a variety of sizes and styles. Pruning, bow or crosscut saws are most commonly used by trail volunteers. Pole saws are useful for cutting limbs that otherwise would be out-of-reach during trail maintenance sessions (e.g., those limbs that are out of reach in the summer but in the face of skiers in the winter).

While chainsaws may be the fastest and most efficient way to clear large trees, stumps or logs, they are heavy to carry over distances and dangerous for inexperienced users. Chainsaws should only be used by individuals who are thoroughly and properly trained .

Training courses in the use of chainsaws are available through many schools and organizations. If chain saws are to be used on a trail, the work should be done by an experienced crew (the person cutting plus two assistants) at a time when other trail workers and trail users are not in the area (i.e., either before or after the other trail work in the area has been completed).

Cut large branches through the collar. If the branch is large, make the first cut up from the bottom a short distance from the collar. The second cut is made through the collar, cutting down from the top.

Digging and Rock Moving Tools

Grubbing tools, such as a Pulaski, McLeod, grub hoe, fire rake or mattock, are used to loosen dirt, cut through roots and remove ground cover vegetation. Workers using a Pulaski, McLeod or mattock must be constantly aware of the position of the cutting blade (which is opposite the digging tool).

Shovels are the primary tool used for digging and moving earth or rock. They are available in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. Square or flat shovels are suitable for moving loose earth and for shaping the trail tread. Round-point shovels are best for digging. Longer handles will reduce the amount of bending required but many people find a short-handle shovel better for carrying heavy loads. The optimal style and size of shovel for each trail task will depend on both the type of work being performed and the preferences of the trail workers. The pick end of a Pulaski or mattock can also be used to loosen compacted soil.

The removal of large rocks from the trail tread should be a relatively infrequent work task. In most cases, it is preferable to design the trail so that is bypasses the large rock. Bypassing the rock will have less environmental impact, and it is also less work. If the removal or relocation of a large rock is specified in the construction log, tools such as a pry bar , rock bar , digging bar , or wrecking bar will be used. In some cases, a winch or grip hoist may also be required. The person in charge of the trail crew is responsible for ensuring that the workers have the appropriate training and experience before any specialized techniques or equipment are used. Seek assistance from experienced personnel if there is any concern regarding the trail crew's ability to complete the required work.

Trail Drainage Structures

Trail drainage structures can be used to separate the trail tread and buffer zone from natural drainage channels that contain concentrations of flowing water. The installation of any type of drainage structure will require permits or approvals from the Ministry of Natural Resources or the Conservation Authority because changes to water flow patterns in the trail environment can have significant impacts on ground on water-based habitats. The construction methods and materials must also be approved to ensure that sediment or construction debris does not adversely affect fish habitat. The permits will provide detailed information about how and when the work can be completed as well as the size and configuration of the approved drainage structure.

Drainage structures within the trail tread or buffer zone should always be of a "closed" design (e.g., culvert, drainage lens). A closed drainage structure is an alternative to building a tread surface above the water flow (e.g., boardwalk). Either a drainage structure or an elevated tread is necessary to prevent the trail tread from having a significant impact on natural drainage channels that either intermittently or continuously contain a reasonably large volume of water.

Drainage structures can be made of many materials including plastic, metal, wood and stone. Each has advantages and will influence construction work in different ways.

The size of the drainage structure, and the materials used to construct them, depend on the location of the natural drainage channel and the volume, continuity and dispersion of the water flow. The aesthetics of the trail environment are also considered during the design of trail drainage structures. The design of the drainage structure is crucial if it is to function in a sustainable manner with a minimum of maintenance. For this reason, the size, material, location and grade of the drainage structure specified in the construction log must be closely followed . The person responsible for the construction crew must assume overall responsibility for ensuring that the constructed drainage structure conforms to the specified design. The construction of a drainage structure is complex, and the steps involved vary each design . Ensure that the trail designer and crew have the knowledge required for the proper construction or installation of the drainage structure.

Culverts

Culverts support the trail tread so that it does not interfere with a natural drainage channel. They are deceptively "simple-looking" drainage structures. Nothing would seem easier than to dig a trench, lay in a pipe, and put the earth back on top. However, experienced trail volunteers know that careful installation and attention to detail is required to install a culvert that will continue to function effectively with little maintenance . Whenever possible, have someone with experience (i.e., they have previously installed several culverts that worked well for more than one year) involved in the culvert installation.

In recent years, culverts have typically been plastic or galvanized metal pipes that are purchased "ready to go". Corrugated metal culverts are typically used for larger water volumes. It is also possible to build culverts using rocks or logs, but these structures require a lot more work and significantly more expertise. All culverts should have a diameter of at least 30 cm (12 inches) so that maintenance of water flow through the culvert will be easier (e.g., a shovel can be used to clear material blocking water flow).

The trail designer will have specified the size and type of culvert required in the construction log, based on the volume and frequency of water flow. From a sustainability perspective, it is essential that culverts are used to protect and maintain naturally occurring drainage channels so that they are not blocked by the construction of the trail tread. Efforts to force water through a culvert that is not in the natural drainage channel cause substantial damage to the natural environment and are rarely effective. Construction crews must be careful to position the culvert in the correct position. The construction crew leader must also ensure that all necessary permits for the use of a culvert have been obtained before the construction work begins .

The steps to install a plastic or metal culvert are:

  1. Mark the natural drainage channel .
    Examine the natural drainage channel before starting construction. Use pin flags, environmentally safe marking chalk or flagging tape to record the precise location of the natural drainage channel on the landscape. Make sure that the markings are outside the construction area so that they will remain clear and available for referencing even after excavation has started.
  2. Remove the vegetation and topsoil .
    Carefully remove the organic material (vegetation, roots, stems) and topsoil from the site where the culvert will be installed. If possible, preserve these materials for use in rehabilitating the site after construction of the culvert has been completed.
  3. Dig a trench at the location of the culvert.
    The mineral soil is excavated at the location of the culvert. The amount of excavation will depend on the size and position of culvert. As a general "rule of thumb", the trench should be at least 20 cm (8 inches) deeper than the vertical height of the culvert, although different designs may vary this depth requirement. The trench (and the culvert it will contain) should extend at least 30 cm (12 inches) beyond each side of the trail tread. Take care to check the position of the trench frequently during excavation, using the reference marks on the landscape (Step #1).
  4. Establish the grade of the drainage structure.
    The grade within the drainage structure is critical for proper function. Without proper grade placement, the movement of sediments through the drainage structure will be compromised. Follow the grade specifications for the culvert in the construction log carefully. The culvert should drop at least 6 cm for every 100 cm of horizontal distance to maintain adequate water flow. Utilize a digital level to measure the grade of the surface on which the culvert will sit as well as at 3 or more locations on the culvert itself (once it is installed).
  5. Size and shape the culvert .
    In most cases the culvert will already be cut and shaped to the correct size before it is delivered to the site. Make sure that the top of the culvert extends at least 30 cm (12 inches) beyond each side of the trail tread. Cutting the ends of the culvert at a 45-degree angle (down and away from the tread) will improve the aesthetics of the culvert in the trail environment.
  6. Position the culvert.
    If a plastic or metal culvert is used, the structure is placed into the trench and then shimmed and stabilized as necessary to ensure proper positioning. If a wood or stone culvert is desired, it must be constructed within the trench. The culvert must be aligned so that the natural path of water flow can enter the culvert without a forced change in direction. The culvert must also be wide enough and deep enough so that water will flow through and out of the finished structure without a significant change in water speed or direction. Changes to water speed or direction will cause sediment to fall out of the water flow and accumulate in the culvert.
  7. Backfill around the culvert.
    After setting the culvert in position, backfill around the culvert with the material previously removed from the trench. Add fill until it is halfway up the side of the culvert and then compact the fill firmly using a flat shovel, McLeod or tamping bar. Continue to alternate layers of fill (up to 15 cm (6 inches) in height) with tamping and compacting until the culvert is completely buried. Compacting the material around the culvert will add strength to the pipe and ensure that correct positioning is maintained. Check the position of the culvert frequently during this step (against the reference marks created in Step #1) to ensure that the tamping and compaction does not shift the culvert position. When the back filling has been completed, the area on top of the culvert should still be 20 cm to 30 cm (8 to 12 inches) below the level of the adjacent trail tread.
  8. Cover the structure with tread material .
    The culvert should be covered with at least 20 cm (8 inches), and preferably 30 cm (12 inches) of tread surface material. The height of tread surface material above the culvert should match the adjacent trail tread so that the finished trail tread has a consistent height and surface. The tread material above the culvert should be installed using the same techniques used throughout the trail.
  9. Stabilize soil and tread material near the inflow and outflow.
    Set large rocks around each end of the culvert to stabilize the fill or soils adjacent to the intake and outflow and to hide the ends of the pipe.

Drainage Lenses

A drainage lens is constructed below grade to allow for water movement underneath the trail tread. It is typically used instead of a culvert where the flow of water is smaller in volume or more dispersed across the terrain. A "French drain" is a term often used to refer to a very similar structure that is built into, rather than below, the trail tread. A drainage lens should be used instead of a French drain so that trail users of all abilities will be able to safely negotiate the trail.

The steps for constructing a drainage lens are:

  1. Prepare the site.
    Carefully remove the organic material (vegetation, roots, stems) and topsoil from the site. If possible, preserve these materials for use in rehabilitating the site after construction of the drainage lens has been completed. Make the clearing wide enough for the trail tread plus the buffer zone on both sides of the tread.
  2. Install landscape fabric.
    Lay down a layer of landscape fabric along the trail tread. The fabric should be long enough to completely cover the site where the drainage lens will be plus have enough additional material to fold back over the top of the drain rock with a 30cm (1 foot) overlap.
  3. Install the drain rock .
    Place 15 cm (6 inches) to 25 cm (10 inches) of drain rock on top of the bottom layer of landscape fabric. Drain rock is large (5 cm to 15 cm (2 to 6 inches), irregular pieces of gravel or crushed rock that provides open spaces for water flow even when the rocks are firmly compacted.
  4. Position the top layer of landscape fabric.
    Fold the ends of the landscape fabric that are lying on the adjacent trail tread back over the top of the drain rock like a "sausage" or "burrito". Make sure that the ends of the landscape fabric overlap each other by at least 30 cm (12 inches) and that the open ends of the "burrito are on opposite sides of the tread.
  5. Install the tread surface material.
    Put the tread surface material on top of the "burrito" of drain rock. Layers of material 10 cm to 15 cm (4 to 6 inches) thick are added and then compacted. Continue to alternate fill layers and compacting activities until the tread surface reaches the desired height. The surface material should now match the tread of the rest of the trail.
  6. Rehabilitate the buffer zone .
    Use the topsoil and organic materials removed from the tread to re-establish a natural surface in the buffer zone. Make sure to provide enough depth of topsoil on top of the landscape fabric (at least 15 cm or 6 inches) to allow for adequate growth of ground cover vegetation.

Open Drainage Structures

Open drainage structures, such as ditches, French drains or bleeders, have traditionally been used to channel water in trail environments. However, using open drainage structures within the trail tread creates a trip hazard and many trail users find it difficult to navigate the water-filled channel or the uneven surface of drain rock. For these reasons, open drainage structures should not be constructed within the trail tread or buffer zone (i.e., anywhere that users may be expected to travel).

The trail designer should carefully consider the environmental impact of an open drainage structure before including it in the construction log. The advantage of open drainage structures is that they often require fewer materials (i.e., less expensive) and with little maintenance or observation they may be less likely to clog. Therefore, the construction of open drainage structures can be considered in areas away from the trail tread and buffer zone. For example, they can be used to contain water flow within a natural drainage channel that connects to a closed drainage structure (e.g., culvert) that crosses the trail.

To construct an open drainage structure:

  1. Identify the natural drainage channel , outside of the trail tread and buffer zone, that needs to be enhanced with an open drainage structure.
  2. Dig a trench along the natural drainage channel extending from the water source(s) to the optimal discharge point. If possible, use natural discharge points (such as creeks) as the end point for the trench. The trench must be wide enough and deep enough to allow water to flow through and out of the trench without significant changes in water speed or direction. The size and location of the trench will be determined by the volume of water and local terrain.
  3. For a French drain or bleeder, fill the trench with large pieces of rock. The rock pieces should be large enough that water can easily flow in between the rocks. Filling the trench with rock keeps the "surface" of the open drainage structure at a level similar to the surrounding terrain. The flowing water must be reasonably clear of dirt and debris for this type of construction. Otherwise, the drain will quickly be filled with silt and the water will no longer pass through. In areas where the flowing water contains a moderate or high amount of sediment, the trench should be left completely open.

Constructing Trail Tread Structures

Tread structures are used when the natural terrain cannot provide or should not be used for a sustainable tread . The structure raises the tread above the natural (i.e., difficult or sensitive) terrain. Typically, tread structures are built in areas with a lot of water (either visible water or saturated soil). Tread structures can also be used to protect areas with delicate plants (e.g., tundra) or make the surface underfoot more even and stable (e.g., crossing a rock slide).

The terminology and construction methods used in relation to tread structures varies dramatically. The feedback on initial drafts of this resource was extremely diverse, polarized and variable from trail group to trail group. Opposing and strongly held views were difficult (and in some cases impossible) to reconcile. However, there was agreement on two general categories for trail tread structures:

Intermittent contact structures are preferred for areas where water is a dominant feature of the landscape. Even if water is not visible, the construction of a continuous contact structure can significantly damage the natural drainage patterns. Continuous contact structures cannot be used in areas where delicate plants must be protected . Although continuous contact structures have historically been used extensively to construct trail tread, from a sustainability perspective they have limited use. They should be used primarily, in select locations not affected by surface water flow, when providing a more consistent tread surface is a priority.

The trail designer will consider a wide range of factors (e.g., environmental impact, permitted trail users) in deciding on the type of tread structure required. The construction of tread structures requires substantial labour, but it is often the "activity of choice" for volunteers who can easily see the results of their efforts. The primary responsibility of the construction crew is to ensure that "as built" is the same as "as designed" (i.e., the constructed structure complies with the specified design as closely as possible) and that there is as little impact on the surrounding environment from the construction activities as possible .

As previously stated, 90% of the environmental damage related to a recreation trail will occur during construction and initial use. If the trail is constructed for sustainability, the environmental impact will be almost entirely related to the initial trail construction. As a result, construction crews have almost total control over the environmental impacts that will occur . Negative environmental impacts that can result from trail structure construction typically include:

In order to minimize the environmental impact of trail structure construction, work crews should :

Prior to the start of construction, it is essential that all necessary approvals and permits have been obtained . Confirm that the local Conservation Authority and any other relevant government offices or organizations have reviewed and approved all aspects of the proposed work. Approval must be obtained not only for what will be constructed, but also the timing of construction. Exactly who will need to approve the project will vary, depending on factors such as land ownership, type of environment, natural habitat, presence of water bodies, etc. The land management agency should be able to provide the names and contact information for the relevant agencies and organizations.

Elevated tread structures are the most costly and labour-intensive aspect of trail construction. For bridges, there are additional liability concerns because the trail user is elevated above the surrounding terrain. Regardless of size, all components of an elevated tread structure must be constructed to appropriate standards for load carrying capacity. Trail designers must ensure that the structure specifications in the construction log conform to all required safety and engineering standards .

Tread Structures Above the Surrounding Terrain

Trail volunteers use a wide variety of terminology to describe the tread structures that they build to elevate the trail tread above the surrounding terrain. For the purposes of this resource, the following terms are used:

Boardwalk (Puncheon Design)
A walkway that is close to the ground (i.e., less than 0.3 metres or 1 foot above surrounding terrain) and is constructed on sills that sit on the natural terrain.
Boardwalk (Post Design)
A walkway that is close to the ground (i.e., less than 0.3 metres or 1 foot above surrounding terrain) and is constructed on posts drilled or dug deep into the ground.
Bridge
A walkway that is elevated above the ground and is constructed on anchor posts, cribs or abutments that are drilled or dug deep into the ground.

Regardless of which anchoring technique is used, the height of the walking surface above the terrain, or the stability of the soil, the same general steps are used:

More detailed information on each of these steps is provided in the following sections.

Choose construction materials carefully!

It is critically important that the construction materials used for elevated tread structures are carefully selected based on the demands of the environment and the safety of trail users. Some types of wood (e.g., cedar) are less likely to rot , particularly if the weather allows them to dry out intermittently. An oil-based stain is suitable for lengthening the durability of natural wood structures in some natural environments. Plastic lumber products can also be used, but they will require much more extensive support structures. Regular maintenance will also be required to prevent the growth of algae which makes the plastic lumber surface extremely slippery when it is wet.

Pressure treated wood is often the "building material of choice" for tread structures because it is expected to last a long time. Until January 2004, wood was commonly treated with Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA). CCA has been linked to health problems for many people. Since 2004, arsenic, a known cancer-causing agent, has been removed from the chemicals used to treat wood. H owever, building supply companies were, and still are, allowed to sell off existing stocks of CCA treated wood. Today pressure treated wood is typically created with chemicals such as amine copper quat ( ACQ ) or copper azole ( CA ). At the very least, these options are less toxic than CCA. However, some health concerns remain and it is still advisable to take precautionary measures when using wood treated with these chemicals. Lumber companies continue to develop non-toxic wood preservatives. Products using sodium silicate [58] are promising, but when this resource was created they were not yet available in Ontario.

Always use safety equipment when cutting and using treated wood, such as gloves, glasses, and a dust mask .

Installation of Anchor Sills

Anchor sills (also called mud sills) provide support for the stringers and are the only part of the elevated tread structure that contacts the ground . Sills can be made from a variety of materials, including logs, lumber and concrete. The size and number of sills will be determined by the required load carrying capacity and the type of terrain. If the natural soils are stable, a smaller sill will be required. In areas where soils are unstable, larger sills will be required. Parking lot curb blocks make excellent sills, although they can be very difficult to transport.

The vertical dimension of the sill should ensure that the top of the sill is at least 15 cm (6 inches) above the adjacent terrain to separate the stringers from the ground. If one sill is not high enough, a small crib can be built. To build a crib, put two logs parallel to each other on the bottom row and then add a second row of logs that is perpendicular to the first row. Additional rows can be added as necessary, each perpendicular to the last, to achieve the desired change in height. Ensure that the top row of logs is perpendicular to the boardwalk stringers. A small gabion basket can also be used in place of an anchor sill. Sills, cribs and gabion baskets should never be located within a watercourse where they would interfere with the natural water flow patterns. Refer to Construction of Abutments for additional information about cribs and gabion baskets.

To install anchor sills:

  1. Remove the organic material .
    Remove all vegetation and organic material (e.g., roots, loose top soil) from the ground that will be under the sill. Organic material left under the sill will eventually rot, and soft spots may develop causing the sill to shift. Take care not to remove organic material or vegetation from the areas beside the sill. Removing too much vegetation can encourage erosion and it also detracts from the aesthetics of the trail environment. In areas with shallow topsoil, the topsoil should also be removed so that the sill is placed directly on a base of mineral soil. However, in areas where the topsoil layer is quite thick, this may not be practical.

Research in Alaska suggests that cellular containment panels can be used for trails in areas saturated with water (e.g., muskeg) [59]. The existing soil and organic material is not removed and the panels are placed on top of the existing terrain. The sills are mounted on top of the panels. The weight of the sills keeps the panels in place and, with time, vegetation will grow through the panels to restore a more natural appearance. Refer to Binding or Stabilization Materials for additional information on panel installation.

  1. Compact the soil .
    Shape and compact the soil to provide a firm surface for the sill. A flat, square shovel or McLeod can be used to tamp the soil in place. Small matrices of broken rock can also be mixed into the soil to create a more solid surface.
  2. Create a rock "bed" for the sill.
    Any wood that is in contact with the ground will be more likely to rot. Place large, flat rocks on top of the compacted soil so that the sill will not be in contact with the ground. If concrete sills are used, this step is not required.
  3. Position lifting straps.
    Lifting straps are strong lengths of webbing, typically 5 metres to 6 metres (16 to 20 feet) in length. Lift one end of the sill slightly off the ground and slide the straps, evenly spaced, underneath. You need one lifting strap for every two people involved in carrying the sill. Workers each drape one end of one strap over their shoulders with the knees slightly bent, hands anchoring the end of the lifting strap. On the lift command, workers extend their legs to lift the sill off of the ground.
  4. Place the sill .
    Carefully lift and position the sill on the prepared ground. It is very important for all members of the work crew to be attentive to the directions from the leader. For safety reasons, the work crew must stop, start and move in unison. It is also important to ensure that all members of the work crew use proper lifting techniques . The use of lifting straps will encourage workers to lift and carry with the large muscles in the legs (rather than the back or arms). If the sills are particularly heavy or the number of workers is limited, the use of a grip hoist should be considered. Do not allow workers to risk injury by straining to perform a task.
  5. Level the sill.
    Use a level to check that the sill level. Shim under the sill as needed to ensure the sill is level from end to end. Shimming with pieces of rock is preferred as small pieces of wood are more likely to rot. Do not rely on "eyeballing". Any errors in alignment at this step will be magnified several times by the time the finished tread is installed.
  6. Stabilize the sill .
    Sills MUST be solidly anchored to the ground. Put 1.5 cm
    (5/8 inch) rebar through holes drilled in the sill is a simple and inexpensive stabilization technique (be sure the drill holes are not above rock sections of the bed). Large rocks or setting the sill in concrete are other stabilization options suitable for some trail environments.

Installation of Anchor Posts

Anchor posts are used instead of sills when greater stability of the support structure is required. In Ontario, the use of anchor posts for the construction of trail tread structures is relatively unusual. Bedrock, sand and muskeg areas are just a few examples of the types of terrain that are not suitable for anchor posts. If anchor posts are to be used, engineering expertise should be obtained to determine the size, depth and location of anchor posts. Because of the complexity of installation, anchor posts are seldom installed by trail volunteers . The assistance of an experienced construction professional is recommended when anchor posts are required to support an elevated tread structure.

There are three types of anchor posts that are commonly used for trail tread structures:

Construction of Abutments

Abutments are structures anchored into the terrain that support the stringers. Typically they are used to anchor a bridge when the banks are quite steep, or when the stringers need to be supported at a height off the ground. Permits will be required for any abutment construction that is in the vicinity of a body of water (e.g., creek). Depending on the ownership and management of the land and environmental factors, permits may be required from a number of different sources. The landowner should be able to provide the list of agencies and organizations that must be contacted regarding permits.

Constructing an abutment into an embankment makes it easier to construct the elevated tread at the same height as the surrounding terrain. However, construction on the banks of water bodies is extremely complex and can cause significant environmental damage if done in correctly. Professional expertise is required for the design and construction of abutments .

Cribs and gabion baskets are commonly used techniques for constructing abutments with volunteer labour. In both cases, a containment structure is built and then the structure is filled with rock to ensure its stability. In the case of gabion baskets, the containment structure is wire mesh [60]. For cribs, the containment structure is typically made of wood. Cribs are built with a series of layers, each perpendicular to the layers above and below. Engineering expertise is required to determine the location, size, materials, construction methods and anchoring systems for all abutments . The footing of abutments must be on ground that is solid and dry. Abutments on flat terrain can sit on compacted mineral soil. Abutments on steep terrain must be tied into the slope. Before constructing any type of abutment, the plans and details of the construction methods and timing must be approved by the local Conservation Authority and/or office of the Ministry of Natural Resources. Gabion and cribs should never be constructed within the water flow channel.

Ensuring Adjacent Anchors are Level

Just as it is important for each anchor to be level from side to side, it is equally important that adjacent anchors be relatively level to each other. If adjacent anchors differ significantly in height, the finished tread structure will be sloped and difficult to navigate. Sloped stringers can also be more difficult to stabilize.

Use a laser level or clinometer (refer to Appendix G for details) to determine the slope between adjacent anchors. If the slope is more than 4% (i.e., a height difference of more than 4 cm for every 1 metre of horizontal length or 1 inch for every 25 inches of horizontal length) the height of the lower anchor point should be increased.

To increase the height of the lower anchor point , complete the following steps:

  1. Determine the height increase required.
    Stand on the higher anchor, facing the lower anchor. Have a second person hold a vertical object on the top of the lower anchor. Use the clinometer, string level or laser level to determine the point on the vertical object that is level with the higher anchor. Measure the height from the top of the lower anchor to the level point on the vertical object. The height difference is the height increase required.
    Example:
    Height Increase Needed = 19 cm
    19 ÷ 2 = 9.5
    Height of each layer = 9.5 cm
  2. Determine the thickness of anchor layers .
    The height of the lower anchor must be increased using an even number of "layers". Otherwise, the final layer (that directly supports the stringer) will not be perpendicular to the stringer. For optimal support structure stability, the stringer should always be perpendicular to the anchor. Divide the measured height increase in half to determine the height of each "layer". Unless the difference in height between adjacent anchors is extreme, building the lower anchor up by two layers will be sufficient. For more extreme height differences, continue to divide the height of each layer in half, until the height of one layer is similar to the vertical dimension of the materials that will be used.
  3. Install a "twin" for the lower anchor .
    Using the same procedures described for installing an anchor, install a second anchor close to and parallel to the lower anchor. The "twin" anchor may be either closer to or farther from the higher anchor, as long as the stringer will span the entire distance, across both lower anchors and the higher anchor. Typically the "twin" anchor is approximately 0.75 metres from the first.
  4. Install additional layers.
    For each additional layer, install two new anchors across the space between the two original anchors. The anchors in each layer are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the layers above and below. Place and stabilize each anchor piece as if it were a small stringer (i.e., using the instructions for stabilizing a stringer). Continue to add anchor layers until the required change in height is achieved.

Attaching Stringers to Anchors

Stringers are the long spans, parallel with the direction of trail travel, which connect adjacent anchors and support the tread . Typically, they are made of wood, either log or lumber. For some projects, steel beams may be used as stringers.

The length of a stringer should not exceed 5 metres (16 feet). That is, the distance spanned between adjacent anchors should be no more than 4 metres (13 feet) . If longer spans are required, professional expertise assistance should be obtained because the diameter and strength of the stringers will need to be carefully calculated.

The stringers are installed after the construction of adjacent anchors is complete. The installation of stringers is similar to the positioning of sills. The steps are:

  1. Position the lifting straps.
    Lifting straps are very strong lengths of webbing that will support substantial amounts of weight. They are typically 5 metres (16 feet) to 6 metres (20 feet) in length. Lift one end of the stringer slightly off the ground and slide the lifting straps underneath. There should be one lifting strap for every two people involved in carrying the stringer. Space the lifting straps evenly under the length of the stringer. Each worker drapes one end of the strap across the shoulders with the knees slightly bent. The hands are used to anchor the end of the lifting strap. On the lift command, workers extend their legs so that the stringer is lifted off of the ground.
  2. Place the stringer.
    Carefully lift and position the stringer onto the anchors. The stringer should be perpendicular to (rather than parallel to) the anchor on which it rests. Remember that stringers from adjacent sections must overlap on each anchor. In general, it is best to alternate the stringers from different directions on each anchor. The number of stringers required for each section of tread will be determined by the required load carrying capacity. Ensure that all members of the work crew use proper lifting techniques . Always lift and carry with the large muscles in the legs (rather than the back or arms). Since most stringers are extremely heavy, ensure that you have a large work crew or use a grip hoist. Do not allow workers to risk injury by straining to perform this task.
  3. Level the stringer .
    Ensuring that each stringer is level is critically important. Use a level to check the alignment. Do not rely on "eyeballing". If care has been taken in ensuring the anchors are level, and constructed materials (e.g., lumber, steel) are being used for the stringers the alignment will be relatively simple. However, if logs are used as stringers, natural variations in the diameter of the log mean that great care will be required to ensure that a level and consistent surface for the trail tread is provided over the full length of the stringers. It is also important to ensure that all parallel stringers connecting the same anchors are level with each other.

    Shim under one or both ends of each stringer as necessary to ensure that each stringer is level:

Shimming with small pieces of wood is commonplace and effective. Since the wood pieces are elevated above the soil, they are not particularly prone to rot.

  1. Stabilize the stringer .
    Stringers MUST be solidly positioned on the anchors. Putting 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) rebar through holes drilled in the stringer and anchor is a simple and inexpensive stabilization technique. Wood stringers and anchors can be securely nailed together by driving several large spikes through the stringer and into the anchor. The spikes should be at different angles (i.e., toe-nailed) to prevent them from working loose. Bolts can also be used to attach wood stringers as well as to secure steel stringers. In wood, the bolts should be countersunk and covered with plugs or wood putty to discourage vandalism.

Attaching Decking to Stringers

Decking is the term used for the walking surface of elevated tread structures. Typically, 2 x 4, 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 lumber is used for decking. Use rough sawn lumber for decking as it provides a tread with more "grip". Thicker lumber (3" or 4" boards) should be used if the distance between stringers is more than 0.75 metres (2.5 feet) or if heavier load bearing (e.g., equestrians, stock, motorized trail users) is required. Avoid the use of tree branches for decking because the rounded walking surface can be hazardous for many trail users. Plastic planks are also used by some trail organizations. However, they require additional support (i.e., more stringers placed closely together) and maintenance (to prevent the growth of algae that makes the surface very slippery), so the choice of this material must be carefully considered. Pressure treaded lumber can also be very slippery when wet so its use is not recommended for decking.

To install lumber decking:

  1. Cut decking pieces to the required length .
    The width of the decking should match or exceed the tread width for the rest of the trail. The minimum deck width is 1.0 metre (3.3 feet) for hikers and 1.5 metres (5 feet) on trails that are used by cross-country skiers. The decking should not extend beyond the outside edge of the stringers by more than 0.3 metres (1 foot).
  2. Lay the decking on the stringers .
    Lay the decking so that the long side of each plank is perpendicular to the user's direction of travel. This will ensure that bicycle and other wheels do not get caught between the planks. Use rough-sawn (milled) planks as they usually provide more grip, particularly when they are wet. Place the decking with the tree growth rings facing down so the boards are less likely to warp. Leave a gap of up to 15 mm (0.6 inches) between boards to allow water to drain off of the tread. Keeping the tread dry will make the wood last longer and be safer for trail users. Unfortunately, the accumulation of organic material in the gaps and on top of the stringers promotes the rot of the underlying structure. The 15 mm (0.6 inches) gap size is a compromise between: a) the space required for drainage and the expansion and contraction of the lumber with changes in temperature, b) the need for a large gap to discourage the accumulation of organic material, and c) the need for a smaller gap to ensure that the decking is safe for users of all abilities. Many trail users have difficulty crossing elevated treads if they can easily see between the planks or have to step carefully onto pieces of decking that are spaced far apart. Lay all of the decking in place before nailing it to the stringers.
  3. Attach the decking to the stringers.
    Screw or nail the planks to the outermost stringer on each side. In general, two nails or one screw on each end of each plank should be sufficient. Galvanized nails or screws should be used. Longer nails or screws (e.g., 10 cm or 4 inch) will deter vandals from pulling up the planks. If there are more than two stringers, do not attach the decking to the centre stringers because, over time, the nails will lift and create a tripping hazard.

The use of logs for decking is not appropriate except in very remote areas where lumber is not available. If logs must be used, the topside of each log should be "shaved" with a chain saw to create a flat surface for trail users to stand on. Spaces between the round log edges should be filled with compacted crushed rock, soil or wood chips so that trail users have a consistently firm, level and stable tread. Remember, putting soil or wood chips on top of the logs will encourage them to rot more quickly.

In areas where the decking will be almost continuously wet (e.g., in the spray from a waterfall or shoreline), expanded metal (flat, metal lattice or grid) or tensar netting [61] can be added to the top surface of the wood deck to make it less slippery under wet conditions. However, care must be taken to ensure that the metal or netting sits flat and tight on the wood surface . Even small sections of metal or netting that are not flat and tight to the wood surface can be a tripping hazard, particularly for children and people who use walking sticks, crutches or canes.

Constructing the Approach

A key component of the design of elevated tread structures is that the parts are separated from contact with the ground to decrease the speed of rot in the wood components. Even though the top of the sill is relatively close to the ground (gap of at least 15 cm or 6 inches), the trail user walking on top of the elevated structure, which is mounted on stringers, will usually be elevated above the remaining trail surface by at least 0.5 metres. The approach structures at each end of the elevated tread enable trail users to navigate the difference in height between the two tread surfaces .

The design and construction of the approach is critical to ensuring that trail users of all abilities can access the elevated tread structure easily and safely. The approach structure should always provide a continuously ramped surface that smoothly connects the ground level and elevated tread surfaces. The slope up the ramp should not exceed 10%, and ramps below 5% slope are recommended. Steps onto the elevated surface can also be provided, and may be helpful to some trail users or if the height differential is substantial, but a ramped surface is always required . Ensuring ramped access will also discourage cyclists from by-passing the elevated tread when water levels are low, in order to avoid dismounting.

An approach structure is not required if the elevated tread structure is constructed on top of abutments that are excavated into the ground so that the elevated tread structure begins level with the ground level trail tread. The excavation and construction of these types of abutments is complex, and professional assistance is recommended.

The construction log will provide detailed information on the length and slope for the access ramp surfaces. Because the access ramps are typically designed to have the steepest acceptable grade, it is critically important that construction crews build the access ramps exactly as designed . Changing a ramp designed as 3 metres (10 feet) in length to be a ramp of 2.8 metres (9.2 feet) in length can mean the difference between a safe and accessible elevated tread and a trail that encourages trail users of different abilities to navigate an uncomfortable and potentially unsafe situation.

There are essentially two types of approach structures:

The construction log will specify the design to be used. The two types of structure are relatively similar. The primary difference is whether the elevated tread decking is extended onto the approach (and then earthen-gravel fill is used only for the final connection to the lower trail tread) or whether the entire approach surface is constructed from earthen-gravel fill. The following instructions are for a ramped approach structure . If an earthen-gravel fill approach is required, begin at Step #3.

  1. Create the foundation .
    The foundation is the area where the approach structure will connect with the ground level tread. The foundation is used to separate the approach structure from the damp ground below. Rocks or concrete are the preferred materials for the foundation. Place flat rocks, concrete slabs, or patio stones on the ground level tread at the point where the approach structure will start. Anchor the foundation using the techniques described for stabilizing the anchor sills. If the ground level tread is a paved surface (i.e., asphalt, concrete, interlocking brick), then a foundation is not required.
  2. Install the stringers .
    The stringers for the approach structure are constructed, sized and installed using the steps described above for the elevated tread structure. Ensure that the stringers are level with each other and the stringers on the elevated tread structure. The ends of each stringer must be cut on an angle so that the stringer fits smoothly against the elevated tread stringers and sits firmly on the foundation. Make sure that the ground-level end of each stringer has a vertical face so that it will sit snugly against the soil dam. Anchor the approach stringers to the foundation using the techniques described for the anchor sills.
  3. Create a soil dam .
    A soil dam is a surface that will not rot (typically rock or concrete) that physically separates the stringers from contact with damp soil, or earthen-gravel fill. Flat rocks, patio stones, or bricks can be placed at the end of the stringer to act as a soil dam. The size of the soil dam should match or exceed the vertical dimension of the stringer above the foundation to ensure a smooth transition between the earthen-gravel and decked surfaces. A soil dam thickness of at least 5 cm (2 inches) will provide adequate separation.
  4. Construct the containment structure for earthen-gravel fill.

    The containment structure creates the "walls" that are filled with earthen-gravel material. It is usually made of skinned logs. Place two logs on the ground so that the surface that will eventually be on the bottom of the containment structure is on the top (i.e., the logs are upside down). The logs should be the same width apart as the width of the ground level trail tread. Place a plank 1/3 of the distance from each end of the logs and fasten it to the logs with nails or screws. The planks are cross-braces that physically connect the logs that will be on opposite sides of the tread. This stabilizes the position of the retainer logs. Place a third log across the opening at one end and nail or screw it in place. The third log will be placed against the soil dam(s) to help retain the earthen-gravel fill.
  5. Position the containment structure .
    Turn the containment structure right side up and move it into position at the bottom of the approach. When positioned correctly, the end log should be perpendicular to the direction of travel and abutted against the soil dams. The two side logs should be aligned with the edge of the ground level trail tread. The cross-bracing planks should now be on the bottom of the structure, against the ground.
  6. Fill and compact the earthen-gravel .
    Fill the containment structure will layers of earthen-gravel or crushed rock. Add up to 15 cm (6 inches) of fill and then compact the material solidly using a flat shovel, McLeod or mechanical compactor. Continue to alternate the addition of a layer of fill and compaction work until the containment structure is filled to the required height. The height of the compacted fill adjacent to the soil dams should be at the same level as the elevated tread. Shape the fill material so that it slopes continuously from the level of the elevated tread to make a smooth connection to the ground-level tread. The fill should also be shaped with adequate cross slope so that rain falling on the ramp will flow off the side of the ramp (rather than down the centre of the tread). At ground level, the level of fill will be lower than the walls of the containment structure.

Attaching Handrails

The trail designer will determine the need for handrails based on a variety of factors, such as the height of the elevated tread above the surrounding terrain, the anticipated range of abilities among trail users and safety codes and regulations. The Ontario Building Code specifies that "guards" (i.e., railing, wall) are required if the walking surface is more than 60 cm (2 feet) above the surrounding ground surface [62]. Handrails are not required on trails because of changes in the grade of the trail. For example, if the grade on the trail exceeds 5% (1:20), handrails are not required on the trail. Trail designers must ensure that trail complies with all safety codes related to the provision of handrails. The trail designer may also require one or more railings in other situations, depending on what is required for the safety of trail users and to assist them in making a steady crossing.

There are a wide variety of handrail designs and materials that can be used. The choices made will depend on the aesthetics of the trail environment and required safety codes. Details of the size and design of handrails to be constructed will be provided by the trail designer in the construction log. Important points to keep in mind during the construction of handrails are:


Attaching Deck Edging

Edge protection may be desirable on elevated tread structures that do not have handrails. Trail designers are not required to provide edge protection on elevated tread structures, except where required by local trail standards or safety regulations. Edge protection (also called a "bull rail") is often included on elevated tread structures that are used by horses. Handrails, rather than edge protection, are preferred for trails that permit cyclists.

If desired, edge protection can be constructed from either logs or lumber. If provided:

Constructing Docks

Docks and floating bridges are most commonly used on water trails (e.g., canoe or kayak routes). However, floating bridges can also be appropriate for crossing small bodies of water. The use of a floating bridge rather than an elevated tread structure must be determined in conjunction with the land managing organization. Permits will be required for all construction work because it occurs within a body of water . The local conservation authority should be contacted so that the proposed work can be reviewed and approved. The landowner should be able to provide the contact information for any additional agencies or organizations whose permission will be required.

The U.S. Forest Service has developed a good resource for the construction of floating trail bridges and docks [63]. It is available, free of charge, on the recreation trail resources web site of the U.S. Federal Highway Administration: http://wwwcf.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/rectrails/trailpub.htm.

The U.S. National Park Service has also recently published an excellent resource [64] on floating docks, launches and landings, which contains suggestions on how to design these facilities so that they are easier for people with disabilities to use. The design considerations recommended in that resource include:

Elevated Tread Structures in Constant Contact with the Terrain

Continuous contact tread structures are controversial in the trails community. Many people oppose the use of continuous contact tread structures because the design creates a continuous barrier that can substantially alter the natural drainage patterns of the trail environment. In general, the use of intermittent contact tread structures is recommended and the use of continuous contact structures should be limited to situations where intermittent contact structures are not feasible.

There is a wide variety of continuous contact tread structures that are used to build elevated trail tread. The terminology used to refer to these different types of structures also varies tremendously, based on the feedback received on the first draft of this resource. For the purposes of this resource, the following terms are used:

Turnpike
An elevated walkway that uses wood borders (i.e., log, lumber) or no borders to retain the fill.
Causeway
An elevated walkway that uses rock borders to retain the fill.
Corduroy
Logs, placed perpendicular to the direction of travel, that are laid side-by-side along the trail tread in order to elevate the trail tread above muddy or wet ground.

Choose construction materials carefully!

By design, the materials used for the construction of continuous contact elevated tread structures will be in "continuous contact" with the soils that occur naturally in the trail environment. This makes the materials more likely to rot, and increases the risk that contaminates from the materials will leach into the soil and impact the local habitat. Therefore, it is critically important that the construction materials used for these tread structures are carefully selected based on their potential impact on the environment as well as the safety of trail users. The use of rock or untreated types of wood that are less likely to rot (e.g., cedar) is strongly recommended . Refer to the Tread Structures Above the Surrounding Terrain section for additional information about the importance of material selection.

Always use safety equipment when cutting and using treated wood, such as gloves, glasses, and a dust mask .

Causeway and Turnpike

The length, height, location and construction techniques for the causeway or turnpike will be determined by the trail designer. Factors such as environmental conditions, natural drainage patterns and trail user information will be combined to determine the type of elevated structure required. The location of causeways and turnpikes is critical to their success (or failure). Areas of very low or imperceptible water flow, or very intermittent drainage channels can easily be dammed by a causeway or turnpike that is constructed in the wrong location. Causeways and turnpikes should never be constructed in areas with visible, ground level water flow or areas with intermittent flooding . If construction crews arrive at the site and find evidence of surface water flow, construction should not begin until the plans for the elevated tread structure are reviewed.

Turnpike and causeway surfaces are long lasting, and low maintenance . Even if the sidewalls are constructed with logs, the rotted log will eventually be replaced by a duff berm that will still retain the drain rock and tread material. The crushed aggregate and other tread surface materials that can be used last longer and require less maintenance than wood plank surfaces. After the initial construction labour and expense, a turnpike will stay "high and dry" in all types of weather. Users will be able to travel through wet environments under enjoyable conditions without making a significant impact on the environment. The main drawbacks for turnpike or causeway use are the high potential for negative environmental impacts and the substantial amount of labour required during initial construction. Building a turnpike or causeway of any length requires an energetic trail crew that is not afraid of hard work.

The steps for constructing a turnpike or causeway are:

  1. Prepare the site.
    Clear the site of organic material (vegetation, roots, stems). Make the clearing wide enough for the trail tread plus the space required by the retaining structure (if constructed). If retainer logs or rocks are used on either side of the trail tread they must be located in the buffer zone so that the width of the trail tread is not reduced.
  2. Install drainage structures.
    Drainage structures, such as culverts and drainage lenses, can be incorporated into the turnpike or causeway if the elevated tread structure crosses through established and well-defined natural drainage channels (i.e., not dispersed, sheet-flow drainage). These drainage structures are constructed in the same manner as in other trail locations (see Trail Drainage Structures ).
  3. Install a geotextile base.
    The water and drainage patterns that occur below the surface should not be disturbed. Lay a geotextile grid on top of the natural surface as a base that will support the turnpike so that it "floats" over the natural drainage patterns [65]. Sheets of geotextile grid are usually about 1 metre by 3 metres (3.3 by 10 feet) in size. They are relatively lightweight and can be fastened together with plastic ties after they have been installed in the correct location. The plastic grid can be easily cut with a utility knife if a different size or shape of panel is required.
  4. Construct the retainer structure.
    The retainer structure creates a trough that is filled with a layer of drain rock and then the tread surface material. For a turnpike, it is usually made of skinned logs. The skinned logs on each side of the tread are connected by lumber planks or smaller logs, which act as cross-braces, at regular intervals. The cross-braces stabilize the position of the logs by physically connecting the logs on either side of the tread, underneath the tread material. Galvanized wire can also be used for cross-bracing the logs. For a causeway, the retainer structure is built with rocks or boulders and cross bracing is not required. End caps (logs or stones across the end of the retainer structure) can also be used if necessary to retain the fill in the intended location. Care must be taken to ensure that the end caps will not become a tripping hazard if the tread surface compacts unevenly.
  5. Install the drain rock.
    Lay down a layer of landscape fabric the length of the turnpike or causeway. Place 15 cm (6 in) to 25 cm (10 in) of drain rock on top of the bottom layer of landscape fabric, in between the walls of the retaining structure. Drain rock is large (5 cm to 15 cm or 2 to 6 inches) pieces of gravel or crushed rock that provides open spaces for water flow even when it is firmly compacted. If you need to keep the tread material from clogging the spaces within the drain rock, a second layer of fabric can be placed on top of the drain rock. If landscape fabric is not available or is not desired, it is also possible to fill the retaining structure with a base layer of large rocks and then a layer of drain rock on top.
  6. Install the tread surface material .
    Put the tread surface material on top of the landscape fabric or drain rock. Layers of material 10 cm to 15 cm (4 to 6 inches) thick are added and then compacted. Continue to alternate layers of fill and compacting activities until the tread surface reaches the desired height. Be sure to install at least 10 cm of tread material on top of landscape fabric so that the fabric does not become exposed over time. The surface material should, ideally, match the tread of the rest of the trail. Using similar material and construction techniques throughout the trail surface will improve the aesthetics of the trail by making the turnpike less obvious to trail users. It is important that the tread surface above the turnpike be shaped so that water flows naturally off the tread surface.

Corduroy

Corduroy is a technique that, in the past, was often used to construct a trail across wet terrain. Typically, it consisted of logs laid side-by-side across the tread, although some trail construction guides recommend that the logs be anchored together. However, corduroy is the source of many sustainability and access problems . The logs in corduroy will eventually rot and require replacement, increasing trail maintenance demands. Corduroy has a negative impact on healthy natural environments because of:

Trail users and wildlife are seldom comfortable walking on top of the corduroy. As a result, the environmental impact of trail use continues to increase as they go further and further off of the trail tread in order to find dry, firm and stable ground. For many trail users, stock and wildlife, trying to balance on corduroy, especially under wet conditions, can be dangerous. For all of these reasons, corduroy is not recommended .

The use of corduroy may be considered in very remote areas where other methods of elevated tread construction are not feasible. Corduroy may also be used on trails that are open for winter use only (e.g., cross country ski trails). If corduroy is used, the following methods of construction are essential:

Retaining Walls

A retaining wall is used to support the trail bench when the natural soil does not have the stability required for a trail tread. The retaining wall is built on the downhill side of the tread and then the trail bench is constructed between the retaining wall and the uphill slope. Some trail groups also use retaining walls to control sloughing of uphill material onto the trail tread. However, this is not recommended. Always construct the uphill slope so that it is at or below the angle of repose , this will allow the slope to naturally stabilize itself through re-vegetation. Retaining walls can also be used on very steep slopes, even if the natural soil is suitable for a trail tread. Constructing a retaining wall on the downhill side of a very steep slope decreases the size of the excavated trail bench and lowers the height of the back slope. For these reasons, retaining walls are often used to construct the landing of a switchback.

Retaining walls can be difficult to build and if the wall required will be more than 1 metre in height, experienced or professional help should be obtained . In general, the best option is to build the trail so that retaining walls are not required. The need for a retaining wall suggests that the natural soil or landform cannot support the trail tread . When that is the case, it invariably means much higher construction costs and more on-going trail maintenance. Before deciding to build a retaining wall, try to find a more suitable, alternative route for the trail.

Retaining walls can be built with a wide variety of materials, such as rocks, gabion baskets, logs, lumber, concrete and interlocking bricks. The choice of materials will depend on aesthetics, and the availability and suitability of materials in and for the trail environment. Building a safe and effective retaining wall involves more than just stacking materials . The slope of a retaining wall (the distance or angle that each row is set back on the previous row) should be determined by the steepness and stability of the slope as well as the performance characteristics of the material being used [66]. Design of the retaining wall must also consider drainage patterns, and how water will flow around and through the finished wall. When in doubt, seek professional advice.

The construction log will specify the materials to be used to construct the retaining wall. The materials are typically log, lumber, rock or interlocking stone. Once the drainage issues have been resolved, and the need for drainage pipes within the retaining wall has been determined, building a retaining wall will require the following steps:

  1. Excavate the footing trench. Dig a trench at least 45 cm (18 inches) deep. Make sure that the bottom of the trench is solid mineral soil, so that the retaining wall will have a solid and secure base.
  2. Install the drain rock. Put a 15 cm (6 inch) layer of drain rock in the bottom of the trench. This will allow water uphill of the retaining wall to flow underneath the wall and continue downhill. Ensure that the drain rock is firmly compacted so that it provides a solid surface for the retaining wall.
  3. Install the footing. The footing is constructed on top of the drain rock layer. The bottom of the footing should be at least 30 cm below the surface. The depth of the footing will be specified in the construction log and is determined by a variety of factors (e.g., soil type, slope, height of the retaining wall). The footing should be constructed from concrete, rock or interlocking stone. Wood footings are not recommended because they will rot over time, significantly affecting the stability of the retaining wall. The footing should be high enough so that the top of the footing is at least 10 cm (4 inches) above the surrounding terrain.
  4. Anchor the wall. Anchors are critically important for the stability of the retaining wall. For log retaining walls, the anchors will be "sill logs" placed at right angles to the face. For rock walls, the anchors will be longer rocks that extend deeper into the filled area than the face rocks. The length of the anchors (rock or log) will be specified in the construction log, depending on the steepness of the slope and the stability of the fill material.
  5. Ensure that the anchors are stable. Do not use shims or chinking or other materials to stabilize an anchor. If an anchor is not stable under its own weight (e.g., it shifts or rocks when force is applied) it should not be used. For a log, ensure that it sits flush on the material below. For rocks, choose rocks that will have at least three solid points of contact with the supporting material.
  6. Lay one row of material along the face (the side of the wall that is parallel to the trail tread) of the wall. The face material should fit tightly around the ends of each anchor.
  7. Ensure that the face material is stable. Do not use shims or chinking or other materials to stabilize the face material. If the face material is not stable under its own weight (e.g., it shifts or rocks when force is applied) it should not be used. For round logs, flatten the opposite sides of each log with a chain saw so that each row of logs will sit flush on the material below. For rocks, choose each rock so that it has at least three solid points of contact with the supporting material.
  8. Fill and compact behind the wall. Fill behind the wall with 10 cm (4 inch) layers of soil. Compact the soil firmly by tamping it in place. Continue to add fill in 10 cm (4 inch) layers and compact the soil until the entire area behind the row of face material has been filled. At this point, the anchors should also be firmly buried in the compacted fill material. For log walls, a filler log or landscape fabric may be placed behind the face logs to prevent soil from escaping through spaces between the face logs.
  9. Repeat from #4. Continue to add anchors in each additional row of face material and then fill and compact behind each layer until the retaining wall reaches the desired height. Remember that any drainage pipes or structures must also be incorporated as you build. Place each face layer so that it sits slightly behind the supporting face layer. The amount of setback for each layer (the "batter" of the wall) will be specified in the construction log. It is determined by a variety of factors, such as the steepness and stability of the slope. In general, each layer of a retaining wall should be set back at least 1 cm (0.4 inch) for every 2 to 4 cm (0.8 to 1.6 inches) in height 66 .

Climbing Turns and Switchbacks

When trails are located in steep terrain and the topography and available land will not allow the use of the more sustainable curvilinear trail alignment, a climbing turn or switchback may be required. Switchbacks and climbing turns allow a trail to reverse direction so that most of the tread can follow the natural contours of the terrain. A switchback will have a relatively level turning area. This ensures that trail users do not have to negotiate the fall line of the hill while on a steep slope. A climbing turn does not have one turning area, but gradually climbs and changes direction throughout the turn. Since trail users will be on a slope on the fall line in a climbing turn, climbing turns are best suited to gentler slopes.

Climbing turns and switchbacks must be built with the utmost care . Whenever trail users can see that the trail abruptly reverses direction, there will be an almost irresistible temptation to "short cut". Trail users going off the trail tread to take a shorter route will significantly impact vegetation and drainage patterns in the trail environment. Damage or removal of vegetation leaves the underlying soil, which is not compacted to be a trail tread, at high risk for erosion. Great care must be taken to camouflage the adjacent sections of trail so they are not visible to trail users until they virtually arrive at the turn. Installing handrails at knee and torso height on the trail tread as it approaches the switchback landing from uphill can be an effective method of encouraging trail users to follow the tread through the switchback. In some types of terrain, vegetation or natural rock outcroppings can also be used to camouflage the adjacent sections of trail tread.

To construct a climbing turn or switchback, perform the following steps:

  1. Cut or create the turning area (this step is not performed for a climbing turn). The turning area for a switchback should be relatively level. Aim for a grade of 5% or less on the turning area (that doesn't apply to the sections of trail before and after the turning area). If the switchback is located on a natural knoll, construct the turning area in the same way you would construct the rest of the trail tread. Otherwise, construct a retaining wall on the downhill side of the tread to create the level turning area. The compacted trail tread of the turning area should be a minimum of 2 metres (6.6 feet) in width. It must be wider than the adjacent sections of trail so that trail users, particularly cyclists or cross-country skiers, have adequate room to make the required turn.
  2. Link the adjacent trail treads to the turning area . Continue to construct the uphill and downhill sections of the tread so that they smoothly connect throughout the turn. In some cases, the natural landform will allow the turn and approaches to be constructed in the same manner as the rest of the trail tread. However, if a retaining wall has been used or in situations where the natural terrain is not suitable, it will be necessary to build approach sections that are raised above the natural terrain. The raised sections of tread are constructed using the techniques described for building turnpike or causeway (see Elevated Tread Structures in Constant Contact with the Terrain ) or an approach to a bridge (see Constructing the Approach ). The downhill approach to the turn (or the downhill half of the climbing turn) should have sufficient outslope to ensure that water drains easily off the trail tread. The amount of outslope required will be determined by the grade of the tread as well as the type of surface material.
  3. Sculpt the surface of the turn . The surface throughout a climbing turn or switchback should be carefully sculpted and compacted to provide proper drainage. On the uphill portion of a turn, the tread should have an inslope so water drains to the uphill side of the tread. The surface of the buffer zone on the uphill side of the turn should be sculpted so that it directs water past the end of the turn. This will prevent water from running across the turn and further down the trail. As the turn continues, the sculpting of the surface is gradually changed so that on the downhill end of the turn a typical outslope is restored and water drains to the downhill side of the tread.
  4. Shape the uphill approach to the turn so it has an inslope . The section of trail tread immediately uphill of the turn (or the uphill half of a climbing turn) should be sculpted so that it drains to the uphill side of the tread. The surface of the buffer zone is sculpted so that water is directed past the end of the turn before continuing downhill. The amount of inslope required will depend on the grade of the trail and the surface material used. If possible, mix crushed rock into the natural soil or harden the tread material so that the amount of inslope required is minimized. Inslopes of more than 5% are very difficult for many trail users. Depending on the size of the climbing turn or switchback, it may be necessary to inslope the approach for a distance of up to 30 metres (98 feet).
  5. Restore the environment around the switchback or climbing turn . When you finish construction, trail users should not be able to tell the climbing turn or switchback was recently constructed. Widely distribute unused soil so that it does not alter the natural drainage patterns and disperse any cut vegetation. Plant vegetation or place fallen trees or large rocks in between the uphill and downhill approaches, to camouflage the next section of trail and to discourage users from taking a shortcut.

Constructing the Trail Surface

After the trail route has been cleared, construction of the trail surface can begin. If the tread is to be the naturally occurring ground surface, it must be firm, stable, resistant to erosion and dry . Soils that contain small pieces of fractured rock (i.e., rock matrix with a variety of sizes of rock pieces) generally provide the most sustainable tread. If the trail alignment is optimal but the natural soils are not suitable, the use of tread stabilization techniques (e.g., soil hardening) or a constructed tread (e.g., boardwalk) will be required. It is inappropriate to construct the trail tread on sub-standard soils that cannot provide a sustainable tread .

Soil types change dramatically throughout every landscape. The trail designer will have considered the naturally occurring ground surface in making the tread material and construction decisions specified in the construction log. Good trail design will locate the trail on the most sustainable soils with appropriate grades , thus minimizing potential erosion. If substantial tread construction is specified in the construction log, it reflects the fact that the optimal trail alignment must cross an area with poor quality natural soils. The constructed tread provides a "structural solution" to the poor quality of the natural soil. The trail construction person needs to always "read the ground" for changes of soil type that may have been missed in the trail design phase . Construction crews should not alter the trail tread work specified in the construction log. If sub-standard soils are encountered during construction, the work should stop until the issue can be re-considered from a design perspective (i.e., consideration of a change in the trail alignment).

To determine if the naturally occurring soil is not suitable for constructing a sustainable tread:

  1. Take a clump of soil and add a few drops of water so that you can form it into a small ball.
  2. Shape the ball into oblong shape so that it looks like a sausage that is fat in the middle and narrower at each end.
  3. A good soil matrix that is suitable for a sustainable tread will stay together when you break the "sausage" in half. If the soil sausage crumbles when you break it into two pieces, the soil will likely not form a sustainable tread.

Building trail tread is often "back-breaking" work. Natural environments rely on delicate patterns of water movement. Trails are not a part of the natural environment, and even the most sustainable trails will alter the natural patterns of water movement. It is almost impossible to underestimate the importance of maintaining natural drainage patterns both during trail construction and on-going trail use. Sustainable trails often require more work to construct, because they pull in and out of every natural drainage channel. However, this work is necessary to ensure that the impact of the tread on the natural drainage patterns is minimized, the tread will have the proper outslope for good drainage, and it will be level enough for safe and comfortable use.

The specific steps for constructing the trail tread will vary, depending on the quality of the natural soils, the terrain, and the type of tread material. In general, the steps will be:

  1. Prepare the ground.
  2. Cut the bench.
  3. Install the tread material.
  4. Restore the tread environment.

Each of the steps used to create a natural surface trail is described in detail in the following sub-sections. Information on constructing hardened or constructed trail surfaces is provided in the section titled Constructed Trail Surfaces.

Prepare the Ground

To prepare the ground for a natural surface tread:

Cut the Bench

The bench refers to the land on which the tread material rests. A "full bench tread" is one that is constructed by cutting the full width of the trail tread into the hillside. Although many people believe that "cutting a bench" is damaging to the trail environment, in fact a full bench tread provides the most sustainable design. Properly constructed, a full bench tread should last "forever" with virtually no maintenance .

A "partial bench&quo